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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble place earning such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary achievement.